Thursday, February 2, 2012

On's Kitchen

2011 was not a good year to start a business on University Avenue in St. Paul. Construction of the new light rail wreaked havoc on small businesses that dot University, such as Cupcake and The Edge Coffee Shop. But against all odds, Chef On Khumchaya opened On's Kitchen, an authentic Thai restaurant where "Mild" means "bring a Kleenex."

A few months later, On's is easy to get to, and even has it's own tiny parking lot in the back, a rarity for University businesses. The atmosphere is what one might expect: colorful, rough arond the edges. The room is large and comfortable, with large windows that will eventually give patrons a front row seat to the running of the trains.

The food is flavorful and plentiful. An order of sticky rice is extra, but comes in a steaming basket and can easily feed a family of four. On our first visit, the (clearly) new waiter was not very flexible with our child's needs. "No children's menu, sorry," he didn't budge. But on our next visit, the server was happy to accomodate us with a huge order of steamed broccoli, and we've heard from friends with children that they have all had similar pleasant experiences.

The food is hot, hotter and hottest. The layers of flavor are so lovely, even a whimp like me can easily polish off an entire plate, as I may or may not have done on a recent visit.

I have one tiny complaint. On's loves their grease. The only tofu on the menu is fried, and the stuffed chicken wings is an obscenely sized, chicken drum stick shaped, deep fried ball filled with chicken and veggies, which might be more at home at a County Fair. The Pad Prik Moo Grop is supposed to be stir fried thick bacon with basil and chilis, but it's closer to a big ol' plate of deep fried pork bits. Having said that, the sauce is amazingly complex and spicy, which helps cut the fat of the pork a bit.

My favorite dish so far is the is the Praram Loang Soang, stir fried broccoli, cauliflower and peppers is an addictive peanut sauce sprinkled with crunchy peanuts and topped with tofu. If only it had been fresh tofu...sigh.

The spring rolls are about the size of a small infant, and stuffed full of crisp lettuce and plump shrimp. The crab cakes were again on the greasy side, but hefty and flavorful.

I have not been brave enough to venture into the true flavors of Thailand that On's offers, such as the Ka-Praow-Pla, which includes fish grind, soft quail eggs, and shredded chicken. But if any of you are looking for authenticity and the blast of flavor usually expected from real Thai food, On's is the place for you, and your slightly more timid friends.

On's does not have a web site, so you'll just have to trust me and pay them a visit.

Heart attack in the making: Stuffed Chicken Wings.


Sticky rice and broccoli.


Thick bacon (or as it says on the menu: Think Bacon) with spicy brown sauce.


Tofu with peanut sauce.


Millie's dinner.