Minnesota State Fair Fare: A Quick Review

The real critics have all weighed in, and as you can see, taste is in the eye of the beholder. As we enter the final weekend of the Great Minnesota Get-Together, I have a word or two to say about some of the treats I've sampled at the fair this year. But don't take my word for it, get out there and try these for yourself.

THE BEST OF THE BUNCH

Liquid: Frozen Blu

I've said this once, I'll say it a million times: this beer is itself worth the price of admission. I am not a beer girl, but this stuff is oh so good. Located just to the North of the two story Lulu's Public House, the Schell's stand serves blueberry beer topped with blueberry beer foam and it is arguably the best thing I've had at the fair. Ever. Yes, I am considering going back this evening, handing over my $10 ticket, and getting myself a Blu. It's THAT good.

Grub: San Felipe Fish Taco

My friend Anne Kingston turned me on to these and I am eternally grateful. San Felipe's taco is a huge, soft tortilla, wrapped around a crispy, battered filet of tilapia and topped with crunchy coleslaw and some secret sauce I could pour on just about anything. Pro tip, if you don't like your entrees sweet, ask them to skip the mango salsa, which is more like mango jam.

SO CLOSE

Liquid (sort of): Lingonberry float

Sorry Anne, and Rick Nelson, I thought this complicated concoction was just ok. They top scoops of lavender hued lingonberry ice cream with lingonberry syrup and seltzer water, then a dollop of whipped cream and a cherry. It's almost too much, and the tiny, mushy berries were a distraction rather than a treat. For over $6, I've had better.

Grub: Salad Named Soo

By all accounts, The Rabbit Hole's Midtown Market restaurant is a top notch Korean spot with a tremendously talented chef. The Rabbit Hole will take up residence in International Bazar's Midtown Global Market stand for the remainder of the fair. On a hot day like Friday, their "salad" seemed like a refreshing choice, and for the most part it was: Cubed watermelon sits in a bath of kicky chili honey lime sauce and sprinkled with mint, cilantro, pea shoots and almonds. The flavors were spot on, but the problem here is with the execution. I don't know about you, but I prefer my herbs chopped. A giant leaf of prickly mint is not appealing, and entire sprigs of cilantro, stem included, just get in the way rather than enhance the dish. I don't want to have to do my own chopping, especially in 90 degree heat, and without a knife. Also, according to the State Fair's web site, the salad was supposed to include arugula, which would have made it more of a, well...salad.

BAD NEWS

Liquid: Espresso Float

I was so excited about the espresso float from Java Jive, but it turned out to be an over priced disappointment. While the flavor was good, I just cannot get over the price. This place has a couple of strikes against it. First of all, their system is all wrong. The same kid that takes your order also fills it, which makes the lines move at an imperceptible "speed." When I was finally handed my $8.50 cocktail of chilled espresso and vanilla ice cream, the cup was barely half full. Um, no. Short changing me on my espresso is never a good idea. When I asked him to put some more coffee in it, the only adult in the booth (presumably the manager/owner) gave me a crusty look. Sorry lady, for that kind of dough, you better fill that puppy to the rim.

Grub: Duke's Poutine

I would not have chosen this item, but I was able to try it at the Taste of the Fair a week before the actual Fair started. Some poutine, like the one from Rabbit Hole, available this weekend at the International Bazar's Midtown Global Market booth, utilizes fantastic French fries that would be wonderful on their own, and tops them delicately with a few choice items. Not at Duke's. These are the bottom of the barrel fries, so fleshy in color you might question if they ever saw a moment in a hot grease bath, and ladle them with some of the worst Thanksgiving gravy this side of the Iowa border. The only discerning flavor was black pepper, and the mouth feel can only be compared to something they might serve you in a rural hospital post jaw surgery.

Liquid: Lemon Kombucha

I'll make this simple: unless you love the taste of watered-down lemon Pledge, stay away from the $3-for-a-dixie-cup serving of Lemon Kombucha at Produce Exchange.

On another note, I noticed that, in what I can only assume is an effort to expedite the entire stuffing-your-face process, several vendors, including Blue Barn and The Rabbit Hole, had dishes pre-prepared and lined up at the ready. This would be fine on a crazy busy State Fair Saturday, but on slower days it does not bode well for the dishes. The French toast from Blue Barn, for example, boasts electric blue pop rocks sprinkled liberally on top of home made whipped cream, but after the dish is plated, it has only a few minutes before the blue sparkle of the pop rocks becomes streaks of neon aqua in a sad heap of cream, which is the sorry mess I was handed. Again, great flavors, poor execution.

So there you have it folks. The good, the bad, and the mediocre. Let me know your faves.. or least faves.

Red Cow

On a recent, cold Saturday evening, I was craving a hot, greasy burger. This doesn't happen often, so my family jumped at the chance to enjoy one of their favorite meals. On the way to the relatively new Red Cow on Selby in St. Paul (there is also an Edina location and a soon-to-open Minneapolis location), I told my husband I would be thrilled if Red Cow came even close to the burgers at Blue Door (where one of the most craveable burgers ever bestowed upon humanity, the Jiffy Burger, reigns supreme.) We love Blue Door, but the St. Paul location is too tiny and the Minneapolis location is...well, in Minneapolis.

Mission accomplished.

But first, the negatives, 'cause that's just who I am.

The space is gorgeous, no doubt about it, with dramatic red booths, fantastic cow paintings, and lots of dark wood everywhere. The former home of Costello's Bar is refined and classy, with pops of crimson everywhere. The seating, however, leaves much to be desired. There are only a handful of comfortable booths, and entirely too many high tops to be considered family-friendly in my book. A three-year old would risk a broken arm or two teetering up there at those high tops, and the teeny tiny vestibule was crowded with tables. I felt sorry for the poor patrons who got stuck there, with hungry would-be customers lurking over their shoulders. I don't understand the choice of high tops, but maybe I'm the exception. I find them terribly unwelcoming. They don't say, "come, sit for a while, stay for dessert." They say, "Champps" to me, and that is not a good thing. It was packed, which is always a good sign, but I would not go back on a Saturday night. Any given Tuesday, I am there.

We got lucky and after about 25 minutes, we were sat at a tiny table that barely fit the three of us, but at least it was a half booth so it was nice and cozy, and out of the way.

And now, to the good stuff. Service was top notch. Friendly, knowledgeable, unhurried. I opted for the Barcelona per the recommendation of the lovely couple next to us. Considering she was practically sitting on my lap, I felt like I could trust her already. The Barcelona is topped with Manchego cheese, prosciutto, piquillo peppers and a smoked aioli smear. They had me at Manchego. Hubby went for broke with the Royale, 'cause he's all fancy like that. Beef patty, pork belly, arugula, brie and tomato jam. Yep, super fancy.

Both burgers were decadent, perfectly cooked, and topped with on-point, balanced flavors. But the fries...oh. My. God. The fries.

Not since Little Tel Aviv in Minneapolis closed its doors have I had such wonderful French fries. When I was younger, my parents fried potatoes at home, in some old frier they dragged with them all the way from Israel, and those fries, my childhood fries, were my idea of heaven. And I'm not even a fry girl! At Little Tel Aviv, they created equally magical French fries, and now again at Red Cow. They are surreal. No, really.

I couldn't resist the dessert special, even though I finished every last bite of my burger (also never happens). Creme brûlée topped with sour cherries, or something like that. But you know what? Meh. Lovely creme brûlée, but the topping was basically thick, uber sweet cherry jam. Next time, I'm finishing my fries!

Oh, we'll go back to Blue Door. There is no way I can forgo my Jiffy Burger. But I am already planning the next trip to Red Cow (Breakfast burger, I'm looking at you!) and dreaming about those spuds.

Royale. Worth all ten thousand calories. 

Barcelona. With fries. 

He likes it! 

Kids' sliders. 

Dessert in a jar. Cute oveload. 

LoLo American Kitchen, Stillwater

After whining for years about how we never, ever, go to MY type of restaurant (read: from-scratch cooking, chef driven, local, foodie...) this past weekend we went to two, count 'em, two such places.


On Friday night we met friends at LoLo American Kitchen in Stillwater. I admit, the term "American Kitchen" has scares me off in the past. I assumed the menu will be uninspired, the cooking techniques lacking, and the spice level reduced to pleasing the Minnesota palate. But places like Tilia, Travail and many others have changed my mind, so when the opportunity for a rare visit with our Wisconsin friends at an American Kitchen presented itself, we happily went.


LoLo is a brand new build-out where once was only an alley. It's a beautiful space and one would never guess that not so long ago all that stood between the two existing buildings was a hot dog cart. The building, complete with an actual ceiling and everything, has an open kitchen, a long bar, and a few comfy booths. Being a brand new building, we were perplexed by the choice to not include some sort of a vestibule. The door opens directly from the street (up a couple of stairs) into the dining area, where several tables crowd the front. We sat at one such table, and every time the door opened, a cold gust of wind swept over us. It's Minnesota, add a heat-preserving vestibule!


On a Friday night, LoLo was packed. Our server was absolutely lovely, patiently waiting as we time and time again had gotten caught up in conversation and forgot to look at the menu. Speaking of the menu,it was a bit odd. A combination of elegant entrees like seared duck breast and maple glazed salmon are joined a bit awkwardly by a collection of tacos, hot dogs, and burgers. I assume the hot dogs are a nod to the aforementioned hot dog cart.


I went for the Korean BBQ tacos, the most exotic sounding item on the menu. My party also ordered the duck and pork belly tacos, the seared duck breast, and the roast chicken tacos, as well as the crostini trio and the roast chicken and ghost pepperjack quesadilla.


The verdict: All of the food was good. The Korean BBQ Tacos, while not terribly Korean (or BBQ for that matter) were delicious. The hanger steak in the tacos was butter soft, as opposed to the almost beef jerky texture I expected and had hoped for from Korean BBQ. It was surprising but nice. The lemongrass and napa cabbage was cool and spicy, a perfect addition. The flour tortillas were huge and fluffy, not what I expected and decidedly American. The bite and flavor of smaller corn tortillas would have been a nicer compliment to the melt-in-your mouth steak.


Appetizers were just ok. The crostini also had texture problems, with the bread being soft and soggy and the pork belly limp and overpowering. The quesadilla was also a bit of a one noter, spicy but overwhelmingly chickeny.


Although I did not partake, the cocktail program (insert my husband's eye roll) was deemed a huge success. A drink called Leave Britney Alone includes a splash of "disappointment."


The best part of the meal, as is the case for most meals, was the dessert. I skipped the cocktails in favor of a sweet bite at the end, and it was very much the right move. A cup of True Stone decaf and a heavenly butterscotch budino, topped with a layer of salty maple syrup, was a divine way to end the evening.


All in all, LoLo was a success. The LoLo web site includes a tab called Street Food but so far there are no items under the tab or any explanations as to how or when it will come to life. We are often in Stillwater and I would gladly go back to LoLo on a quieter night and try one of the burgers, perhaps and Surf 'N Turf, complete with lobster and candied bacon, and hope the budino is still on the menu.

Leave Britney Alone! With edible orchid. Would you have eaten it?

Seared duck breast. Perfectly cooked and joined by plump cherries and Yukon potatoes.

Too. Much. Tortilla. 

Next post: Red Cow Burgers.

Review of Twin Cities Chef's Table: Extraordinary Recipes from the City of Lakes to the Capital City

I love to cook, but I am obviously no Steven Brown. Still, I can work my way around a kitchen. One of the many things I love about Twin Cities Chef's Table is that the recipes have not been "dumbed down" for us home cooks. It's as if the chefs believe in us, in our ability to produce something as elegant as duck-fat roasted beets or pancetta-wrapped pheasant breasts with sweet garlic sauce. While my world involves more chicken nuggets than chicken ballotine, I appreciate the faith that it took for these well accomplished and world trained chefs to include recipes like braised octopus is the book. They shared what they wanted to share, and that is why I got the book, for the authentic insight into their kitchens.

Another thing I appreciate about Stephanie Meyer's beautiful new book is that the recipes often include many elements that can be made separately, both for monetary and sanity purposes. While I may not undertake Alex Robert's lobster with truffle butter on a weekly, or even yearly, basis, I may be able to sneak those gorgeous ricotta gnocchi into our family dinner without breaking the bank. Forepaugh's Donald's Duck may have a cute title, but I am pretty sure preparing the eight different components will send me to the loony bin. But hey, those lovely rice tots sound divine with a simple roasted chicken breast. I can do that!

The recipes span the gamut from the simple to the terrifying and everything in between. And while it is not possible for me to serve bunny agnolotti to my seven year old (unless I want to send her to therapy directly after dinner), I already tackled Brasa's citrus pork with great success. Fika's Gravlax may not become a staple in my home, but you can bet that Pizza Lola's pizza dough and Salty Tart's pastry cream will.

I have heard of, but have not visited, all but one of the establishments featured in the book. Most have been on my to-eat list for a long time, but because we are lame, we have not been very good at ticking off the list. Yet. Part of me wants to pick up another copy and keep it in the car. That way, when we are out running errands on a Saturday (there are lots of great places within 10 miles of Room and Board, it turns out) I can quickly skim the pages and choose something like Birchwood or Wise Acre instead of (please forgive me) Chili's.

Pick one up today for your favorite home Chef.

Citrus Pork Hash

Forgive me Blogger for I have sinned. It's been over two years since my last post. Life gets in the way and before you know it, two years have gone by without a blog post. They have been a great two years, however, filled with joyous (and not so joyous) days with my girl, trips around the country and abroad, and a couple of freelance jobs that I absolutely love and that sometimes even pay for my cappuccino habit. Almost.

But after a long absence, inspiration struck yesterday when I went to a demonstration and book signing by Zoë François and Stephanie Meyer at Kitchen in the Market. Both ladies have recently released lovely new books. Zoë is on her fifth book with partner Jeff Hertzberg, Gluten-Free Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day and Stephanie just released her first book, Twin Cities Chef's Table , a gorgeous book featuring local chefs and their recipes, along with photos from the author herself.

Every so often, I am reminded that I am more than a mom who occasionally writes for a small neighborhood newspaper (which, as I may have mentioned, I LOVE!) I also love to cook, I try to eat at local restaurants as much as our very picky seven year old will let us, and whole heartedly support this fantastic movement toward farm-to-table chef driven thing we have going on in the Twin Cities and beyond.

We were recently in Duluth, as a matter of fact, and had this amazing sandwich at Northern Waters Smokehaus and a luscious latte at Duluth Coffee Company. Both places had great service and a passion for their craft that shone through in a way only a small establishment can offer.

So, back to the inspiration. That would be Stephanie Meyer herself. A ridiculously talented Renaissance woman, she is a photographer, writer, recipe developer, cooking instructor, advocate of local eateries and can deck out a "Treehouse" with the best of them. After meeting Stephanie, I remembered that I used to be sort of hip. I used to write for great magazines and websites, I used to hang with all the cool kids. I got sidetracked by life's little and big joys, but last night I was inspired to take a small step, get back to writing about what I really care about, and most importantly, I was inspired to cook.

One of the recipes in Twin Cities Chef's Table is a citrus pork shoulder from Alex Robert's Brasa. It's one of my favorite go-to's at Brasa, so I made it as soon as I found it on Stephanie's blog, Fresh Tart. The pork shoulder I bought fed approximately 27 people, and since there are only three of us in our family, one of whom does not eat much more than mac & cheese and ketchup, there was plenty left over. On a cold evening with the threat of an early November snow looming, I decided on potato hash. Doesn't that just always sound good? Say it with me...potato hash. It sounds warm and crispy and flavorful. No? Maybe it's just me.

Anyway, it turned out great. Without further adieu, Citrus Pork Hash.

Citrus Pork Hash

- Left over Brasa's Pork Shoulder Roasted with Citrus Mojo
- 4-6 small Yukon potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
- 1 red pepper, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
- 1 celery rib, cut into thin slices
- 1/2 yellow onion, chopped
- 1-2 garlic cloves, minced (you can add more if you love garlic. I do not.)
- Kosher salt and pepper to taste
- Parsley or cilantro for a bit of freshness

Place potatoes in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add a little kosher salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook until barely tender, about 5 minutes after coming to a boil. Drain potatoes.

In a cast iron skillet, sauté onion and garlic in a bit of olive oil. When onions are opaque, add red peppers and celery. Cook another 3-5 minutes, then add potatoes. With a spatula, gently push the vegetables down to create a flat surface. This helps sear them on the bottom, creating a crispy texture. Cook until the potatoes have the texture you want. You can simply warm them up, or go for a deeper sear and cook them longer.

Add left over pork. If you want crisper meat and vegetables, add as little of the juices (mojo) from the pork as possible. For a softer texture, add more.

Cook until the pork is heated through. Sprinkle with parsley or cilantro. Serve with warm tortillas or tortilla chips.

Looking back at previous (ok, old) posts, I realized I talk about Zoë a lot, and have even mentioned Stephanie once or twice. At least I'm consistent in my stalking choices.

Citrus pork hash.

Yes, this is all she eats. And it took a lot of work to finish the plate.

Diversity

We love Art-A-Whirl weekend. It's the official start of summer for us, of out-door festivals and eating on folding chairs in front of various food trucks. This year, Chef Shack was parked in front of the Northrup King Building, so we enjoyed pork tacos and sweet potato tacos al fresco, surrounded by rusty train tracks. I didn't snap any pictures because it started raining just as we were slurping up the last of the tacos, but trust me, they were beautiful. Catch them when you can.

Art-A-Whirl is also a great excuse to eat at one of our favorite dives, Uncle Franky's Hot Dogs. We tend to save this luxury for this special weekend, although I am not sure why. It has an adorable back patio, and seems like a perfect summer lunch for kids and grown ups alike. Now that I think about it, there might be is a Chili Dog in my five-year-old's near future. Except she'd order it without the chili...

My go-to: Northside Polish Maxwell with fried onions and sauerkraut, and Tony's Southside Maxwell, a deep fried Polish with mustard and hot peppers.

To round off our weekend of eating dangerously, and since we were sans aforementioned five year old, we decided to give Ngon's Bistro on University a try. Ngon's Bistro has been on my Must Try list for a while. It's been getting a lot of press, and since I am on a bit of a mission to single handedly help restaurants on University Avenue stay in business during the light rail constructions, it was my civic, no, HUMAN duty to visit them.

The Pho here is highly rated, and even though I am not a big Pho fan (say that fast ten times) it seemed like a good place to give it another go. It was a good choice, with a flavorful stock and fresh toppings like sprouts and jalapenos. I could have done without the strangely textured meatballs, I must admit, but the soup itself was lovely. Add to that the gorgeous Spring rolls, which were popping with cilantro and with a rich, thick peanut sauce, and I was a happy, albeit full, camper. Next time, I'm going to try my husband's choice, the Hu Tieu, which is a more subtly flavored broth made with pork instead of ox tail. I may even skip adding any protein, the stock and rice noodles are robust enough on their own.

Oh, and another note to self: split the Pho, it's enough for at least four adult-sized meals. See?

Strawberry Rhubarb Buttermilk Cake

I had a tough day. I wanted cake. I had fresh strawberries and frozen rhubarb from last year, and now I had an excuse to make this cake I have been eyeing for a while.

The original recipe does not call for rhubarb, but it is such a simple cake I knew it could handle anything I threw at it, and I was right.

Thank you Sarah, for an amazing blog full of gorgeous photos and tantalizing recipes.

For the recipe, check out Sarah's blog, The Vanilla Bean.

I lead a small life. I get easily excited by simple things like a new grill cover, the fact that my local coffee shops has started carrying Mojo Monkey donuts, and the arrival of a new farmers market, even when it's all the way in Minneapolis.

Tilia co-owner and chef extraordinaire Steven Brown spearheaded the lastest addition to the metro's burgeoning farmers market scene. The market, located in the quaint little village of Linden Hills, will feature local farmers as well as small purveyors of goods like honey and flour. With it's inaugural season kicking off Sunday, June 3rd and running through October, the Linden Hills Farmers Market will also entertain and delight with music, cooking demonstrations (Mr. Brown himself? Zoe Francois? Andrew Zimmern? Just throwing out some ideas...) crafts and face painting.

Some of the participants will include:

• Callister Farms
• Broadfork Farm
• HolisticHealth Farms
• Bare Honey
• Great Harvest
• Foxy Falafel
• Patisserie 46
• La Belle Crepes
• Sunrise Flour Mil
• Red Wagon Pizza

While sellers like Patisserie 46 and La Belle Crepes do not bode well for my waistline, I am counting the days and looking forward to our weekly jaunts across the river in search of local yums and some kiddie entertainment to boot.

I'm baaaaack!

This past Monday, I accidentally attended a Minnesota Food Bloggers event at Kitchen in the Market. Let me explain. A while back, Zoë François posted an announcement on Facebook about an event, where she would be demonstrating how to toss pizza dough up in the air. I may have previously mentioned that I would follow Zoe anywhere, regardless of what she was tossing, so I signed up that very same day. Fast forward to Monday evening, and I walk into a bright commercial kitchen tucked into a corner of Midtown Global Market. I am asked to fill out a name tag, and include my blog name. Luckily, I have one of those, so I dutifully jot it down. I quickly survey the room and realize I am at a networking event. I hate those. I am a horrible schmoozer and am absolutely terrible at self-promotion (although I can drop names with the best of them, as you may have noticed. Have I mentioned I know Steven Brown? And I once touched Rick Springfield's hand...but I digress.)

With a glass of wine in hand, I took a deep breath and approached a couple of lovely folks and quickly made friends. Everyone in the room was friendly, enthusiastic and eager to learn. After noshing (get it?) some gorgeous flat bread and hummus, it was time for our demonstration. Zoe, of course, was lovely and funny, tossing dough up in the air like a Globetrotter. Then it was our turn. This thing was run like a fine oiled machine. We were handed cute little cake boards, wrote our names on them, and then given a perfect little ball of dough. We took turns dimpling it, and under Zoe's watchful eye, we tossed it up in the air. Most came back down.

Next it was time to top 'er up. What seemed like miles and miles of beautiful, fresh toppings were lined up for our choosing. Cheeses, herbs, meats, oils, even tiny, gorgeous quail eggs...throw in a chocolate glazed doughnut and this is what heaven would look like, of this I am certain. I had made a few new friends during the presentation, so we sat together to enjoy our creations. Wow. Good food, good company, it was all so wonderful.

Which brings me to today. The talented ladies I shared a table with are avid bloggers who put me to shame. So I am back on it kids. I am combining my blogs into one and forging forward with the earnest zeal of a five year old in Disney World. Thank you to Zoe, Stephanie Meyer of MN Food Bloggers, Molly Herrmann and Tracy Morgan (not that Tracy Morgan) of Kitchen in the Market, and all the other helpful folks behind the counter who made this event so fun.

Exciting changes coming soon to Noshing in the Midwest. Inspired by the amazing fellow bloggers I met at the MN Food Bloggers event at Kitchen in the Market (more on that later), I am going to return to my blogging efforts. But first, some revamping is in order. As all nine of my readers know, I have a couple of blogs dedicated to all things food. In an effort to stream line my ramblings, I plan on combining Sugar and Spice with Noshing in the Midwest, creating a new blog focusing on both recipes and restaurant recommendations.

According to Andrew Zimmern, there are entirely too many food/restaurant bloggers out there tauting themselves as experts. I am no expert, I just know what I like, and I like to talk about food. Besides, Andrew, where else would I have met these super cool, inspiring women if it hadn't been for the MN Food Bloggers events?

See you all soon!

On's Kitchen

2011 was not a good year to start a business on University Avenue in St. Paul. Construction of the new light rail wreaked havoc on small businesses that dot University, such as Cupcake and The Edge Coffee Shop. But against all odds, Chef On Khumchaya opened On's Kitchen, an authentic Thai restaurant where "Mild" means "bring a Kleenex."

A few months later, On's is easy to get to, and even has it's own tiny parking lot in the back, a rarity for University businesses. The atmosphere is what one might expect: colorful, rough arond the edges. The room is large and comfortable, with large windows that will eventually give patrons a front row seat to the running of the trains.

The food is flavorful and plentiful. An order of sticky rice is extra, but comes in a steaming basket and can easily feed a family of four. On our first visit, the (clearly) new waiter was not very flexible with our child's needs. "No children's menu, sorry," he didn't budge. But on our next visit, the server was happy to accomodate us with a huge order of steamed broccoli, and we've heard from friends with children that they have all had similar pleasant experiences.

The food is hot, hotter and hottest. The layers of flavor are so lovely, even a whimp like me can easily polish off an entire plate, as I may or may not have done on a recent visit.

I have one tiny complaint. On's loves their grease. The only tofu on the menu is fried, and the stuffed chicken wings is an obscenely sized, chicken drum stick shaped, deep fried ball filled with chicken and veggies, which might be more at home at a County Fair. The Pad Prik Moo Grop is supposed to be stir fried thick bacon with basil and chilis, but it's closer to a big ol' plate of deep fried pork bits. Having said that, the sauce is amazingly complex and spicy, which helps cut the fat of the pork a bit.

My favorite dish so far is the is the Praram Loang Soang, stir fried broccoli, cauliflower and peppers is an addictive peanut sauce sprinkled with crunchy peanuts and topped with tofu. If only it had been fresh tofu...sigh.

The spring rolls are about the size of a small infant, and stuffed full of crisp lettuce and plump shrimp. The crab cakes were again on the greasy side, but hefty and flavorful.

I have not been brave enough to venture into the true flavors of Thailand that On's offers, such as the Ka-Praow-Pla, which includes fish grind, soft quail eggs, and shredded chicken. But if any of you are looking for authenticity and the blast of flavor usually expected from real Thai food, On's is the place for you, and your slightly more timid friends.

On's does not have a web site, so you'll just have to trust me and pay them a visit.

Heart attack in the making: Stuffed Chicken Wings.

Sticky rice and broccoli.

Thick bacon (or as it says on the menu: Think Bacon) with spicy brown sauce.

Tofu with peanut sauce.

Millie's dinner.

India Palace

I am not an expert on the various cuisines of India. I am sure there are many restaurants featuring Indian and other Asian foods that are much more authentic than India Palace in Roseville, Minnesota. But I have always enjoyed the lunch buffet (a great way to experience any food you are not familiar with), so when a friend recently invited us for dinner there, I was excited to try it.

India Palace features three options on their Dinner For Two menu. Our friend swore that by "Two" they mean "at least four" and he was right. We ordered the Tandoori and the Biryiani dinners, and our table resembled a Medieval Feast fit for a king. Let the gluteny commence!

I would love to explain exactly what we had, but as you can see, I was lost in the madness of it all. All you need to know is it was all very, very good. Stand outs were the robustly flavored sausage on the tandoori plate, the peshawari naan (a sweet naan with raisins and nuts), the kulfi ice cream made with pistachios, and the subtle chai tea.

India Palace Web Site

Tilia

What do can I possibly have to say about a restaurant recently voted best of 2011 by Minnesota Monthly that hasn't already been said by people with ten times more Facebook friends than little old me?

Plenty.

First, full disclosure: my friends Angie and Jorg are proud co-owners of Tilia, along with renown Chef Steven Brown. 

Tilia offers more than just really, really good food. Dinning at Tilia is akin to visiting with old friends. You are left with a sense of warmth, of gratitude, of longing for the next encounter. But let's start from the beginning.

The setting is gorgeous. From the carefully chosen light fixtures to the retro speakers belting out a unique mixture of old and new rock medleys, to the vibrating scene in the kitchen, Tilia looks like it's always been in this very spot in the heart of Linden Hills. Choose between the comfy booths, the rustic row of tables by the windows, or better yet, pull up a stool to kitchen counter and watch the magic happen first hand. Steven Brown's crew is having a good ol' time, and it shows in the dishes they put out.

The menu is playful, right down to the kids' menu printed on those little origami fortune-teller thingies we played with in elementary school to predict who we would marry and how many children we were destined to have.

For grown ups, may I suggest starting with a sampling from the It's Nice to Share section. I wouldn't have dared ordering something called Potted Meat anywhere else, but I trusted Steven and it has now become something that visits me often in my dreams. Like wise for the caramelized brussels sprouts and kobe beef hot dogs with pickled cauliflower. Crazy simple, crazy good.

A turkey burger is elevated to extraordinary heights with caramelized onions and gooey cheese. The meat is so, well, meaty, you would swear they threw some ground steak in the mix, so juicy it soaks through the sweet bun. Pictures do not do this beauty justice.

I have one bone to pick with the fish taco torta. While it is by far the very best, crunchiest, freshest fish sandwich I have ever tasted, it is not, by definition, a torta, which is specifically served on a bolillo or a telera roll, vs. the plain bun used here. But that just may be the obsessive compulsive writer in me talking.

Moving on, the shrimp in a glorious scampi sauce along with bright sweet peas is lick-the-plate delicious. You are supposed to share it, but HA! All mine.

The current menu features winter friendly items, such as red wine braised beef cheeks perched atop chestnut polenta and roasted figs. The meat is so tender it falls apart as the fork approaches it. The flavor is rich beyond explanation, like no other cut of meat I have sampled. You'll just have to put your Andrew Zimmern hat on and try it despite the mental image it conjures.

I haven't tried the wintery versions of the pasta dishes, but if the previous incarnations are any indication, the Tagliatelle Pasta will join it's friend the potted meat in my dreams soon enough.

Tilia has gotten more accolades than "Rent" and has quickly become the darling of every food critic worth their salt in the Midwest. And while it's true that getting a coveted seat for their Sunday brunch has become even closer to impossible now that it's been named Best Brunch by Mpls/St. Paul magazine, and you may have to wait for a while for lunch, or dinner, even on a Monday night, you can choose to visit Tilia during its "In Between" hours, when the menu is slightly narrower but the experience no less enchanting.

From an expertly chosen wine and beer list to fresh local produce, no detail is neglected at Tilia. So bring your Nook and read a novel while waiting for your table. It will be worth it. Oh, so worth it.

The seriously indulgent butternut squash soup. Plan to share it, and to take some home.

I'd drive around that damn lake just for this chewy, hot grilled bread. I swear they lace it with something. 

I told you the turkey burger didn't photograph well. 

You have not lived until you have delved into the lush bed of farro in gorgonzola sauce adorning the crunchy sweet beet salad. Sigh. 

The beef cheeks, a thing of carnivorous beauty. 

Pear tart with creme fraiche panna cotta in a white wine, pear, and goat cheese reduction. I think. I stopped listening at creme fraiche panna cotta. 

It was really good.

Tilia web site

Patisserie 46

I've been trying to abstain from sugar until Thanksgiving. And it was going quit well too. Until I happened to be in South Minneapolis, which I rarely get to since it's all the way across the river, and I happened to be driving down 46th street, and I happen to have just come from a baking presentation by Zoe Francois, and I happen to be hungry and maybe just a little bitter about the whole no-sugar thing, and I came across what I knew to be tauted as the best bakery in the metro. And I knew that my readers (that's you) have been dying to know if Patisserie 46 is really as fantastic as they say. And I'm trying to shop local...

So I went for it. I marched into that cute little corner bakery slash coffee shop and ordered. And ordered. And ordered.

I patiently waited through the long drive back to Saint Paul (seriously, Minneapolis is far!) so that I can snap a couple of pictures of all that loveliness. Then I made myself a cup of tea and gathered my family for a little tasting.

The brioche bostock was crazy good. While usually bostock is a way of using day-old brioche by brushing it with syrup and topping with almonds, Patisserie 46th's was a version all it's own. It was a moist, dense cake, baked with almond paste and topped with slivered almonds. A hint of orange was delightful, and the crunchy almond topping was a perfect match to the soft interior. I could have stopped there. But I didn't.

Next, we tried a roasted pineapple danish sprinkled with lime zest. It was sweeter than the brioche, and the layers of ultra buttery, flaky dough were ridiculously sinful. I am sure the rest of their danishes and croissants are divine as well.

A thick slice of vanilla cardamon bread had sat a tiny bit too long, so one side was a bit dry, but it was delicious non-the-less. The subtle cardamon was a fun surprise, and did not over power the delicate vanilla. Soft and rich and satisfying, this would be my first choice for a partner to a morning cappuccino.

Finally, a little cookie that was recommended to me by a young man promising "a cake like cookie, buttery and doughy" didn't quit deliver. It may have been softer earlier in the day, but as it was we enjoyed it simply as a nice little butter cookie. At $1.25, it really wasn't much of a risk.

Our entire plate of sugary goodness was under $12, not what you would expect from a bakery owned by a chef named one of the top 10 pastry chefs in America who also happens to be a Food Network Chocolate Challenge winner. I would have gladly paid double.

Next time, I would like to spend some time in the cozy shop, and indulge in one of their dazzling desserts, the likes of which one only sees on Food Network.

Patisserie 46 web site

Scusi

Let me start by saying Italian food is not one of our favorites. I find it mostly bland, and I think it has to be crafted by amazing talent in order to be fabulous. But we were still hopeful when we visited Scusi, the latest attempt by Blue Plate Restaurants. Since we love Longfellow Grill and its counterparts across the metro, I was excited to see what they would do with a bowl of pasta.

Not much, as it turns out.

First, the setting. Scusi is in Heartland's old home on St. Clair in St. Paul. Other than being directly across from a Super America, it's a perfectly lovely neighborhood spot. The inside has been reinvented to resemble an Italian country bistro of sorts, with blue and white checkered table cloths and rich wood paneling on the walls. There is the ubiquitous open kitchen, nicely countering the tightness of the table spacing. I assume they were going for that European feel-like-you-are-sitting-in-your-neighbor's-lap vibe, but I worry how well that will go over in our personal space sensitive culture.

To say the place was boisterous is a bit of an understatement, and the bizarre choice in decidedly un-Italian music and a weird movie playing on several screens over people's heads didn't help. But then again, they are not trying to be La Grolla. Groups of women clinking wine glasses and two large groups of hipsters on a Friday night group date dominated the space, with a few couples struggling to hear each other thrown in.

While this is not exactly a "theme" restaurant, the creative team clearly had an idea in mind (insert mental image of a group of scruffy entrepreneurs drinking local, seasonal beers and throwing random ideas around until one sticks.) What Scusi seems to be going for, and has trained their staff well to convey to us, is a refined Bucca. Our plates, while regular entree sized, are meant to be shared, explained our server Randall, or Robert, or Ricky, I couldn't hear. They come out of the kitchen as they are ready instead of waiting for each other under a heat lamp and we are just to dig in and share them as they appear. I am not sure why this needed an explanation.

We began with an assortment off the salumeria portion of the menu. We chose a cheese, a meat, and a choice of olives, which arrived on a rustic cutting board with roasted garlic in a tiny pool of olive oil. There were only four slices of bread with which to enjoy this assortment, but luckily a server also placed what seemed to be a doggie bag and a crock of white bean dip on our table. Inside the doggie bag was rosemary flat bread, which we smeared with the garlic and topped with prosciutto and brie. Our choices were not exactly adventurous, but it was a very nice start to our meal.

For dinner, we chose lamb pappardelle and shrimp ravioli to share (because if nothing else, we are good at following directions.) The lamb dish, while largely lacking in said slow cooked lamb, had a subtle Mediterranean flavor, with sweet carrots and golden raisins in a lamb ragout. The pappardelle noodles were perfectly cooked, fat and satisfying. It was exactly what the doctor ordered (I had a cold, you see.)

Although I had originally ordered the shrimp ravioli, we switched plates after a small taste of each. The robust vodka sauce on the ravioli was the highlight of the evening, but the texture of the shrimp did not work with the delicate ravioli pasta. I should mention that the pasta at Scusi is home-made, so it is a bit more chewy than most Americans might be used to. But give it a chance, it is delightful.

We declined desserts, partly because I am staying away from sugar until Thanksgiving, and partly because we had tired of the noise. But the cake placed on the table next to us looked divine, so I would recommend trying something dolce if you decide to visit Scusi.

All in all, it was a good attempt at homey, rustic Italian cuisine. While the menu selections were innovative and promising, something was lost in the execution.

Italian food does not photograph well. You'll see what I mean below.

Our salumi selection.

Lamb pappardelle.

Shrimp ravioli.

Shish

No, that is not an expression of exasperation. Shish Kabob is a Middle Eastern dish consisting of a variety of meats and vegetables cooked on a skewer. Shish, for the purpose of this particular blog post, refers to a lively little deli in the MacGroveland neighborhood of St. Paul.

If you ask me on any given night what I would like for dinner, I will undoubtedly say Thai or Middle Eastern. Tony would say pizza. Shish is a bit of a happy medium, as it is not the authentic traditional dive that I am craving, where the servers yell at you for taking too long to order and a rousing game of soccer is playing on the T.V. in the corner, but it is delicious, fresh, and convenient, so we end up there much more frequently than we do anywhere on Central Avenue.

Let's get the negatives out of the way first. For one thing, it's way too clean. For another, the patrons tend to be more of the white, rich college kid type (it's across the street from Macalester College) who say annoying things like, "I'm so hungry I'm going to have two guy-ros!". Then there is the fact that there are no printed menus. One is forced to stand in line with said college kids and scour the menu board frantically. The menu board, by the way, is a giant black board set to the left of the line, with some menu items inexplicably written in blue chalk. And the menu is extensive, which is good if you are looking for variety on a quiet Sunday afternoon, not good if you have no idea what you want and there are only two people ahead of you in line and eight behind you. Half the time I get to my table having no memory of what I've just ordered because I was so rushed in doing so. Having said that, what ever ends up on the plate in front of me has always been wonderful.

Shish serves breakfast items as well, which are far less successful than their dinner menu, with a couple of notable exceptions. The crepes are decadent and filled to the brim with sweet cream cheese. Leave your Weight Watchers Point Tracker at home. They also serve a horchata (a creamy rice based drink) that rivals any served in Spain, according to my husband, and he knows his horchata folks.

The lunch and dinner menu, as I've mentioned, is huge. Step out of line and take your time, there is a lot to take in. We always marvel at the freshness of the vegetables in their salads and sandwiches, and I have to admit the hummus at Shish is some of the best in town. It's served the way Abraham intended, on a small plate and has a deep channel filled with olive oil, and sprinkled with parsley and paprika.

We tend to err on the side of caution and order the gyro sandwiches or plates. The plates come with a generous portion of their bright yellow signature saffron cardamon rice, gorgeous sauteed vegetables (usually a variety of squashes) and a side salad adorned with barely a spray of lemon juice, light and lively. The Greek salad is ample and heaped with creamy bricks of salty feta and sprinkles with just the right amount of dressing. The children's portions are also generous, which reminds, note to self: Millie can eat off my plate next time.

There are no over-powering flavors at Shish, so as to not offend young Midwestern palates, which may be why I don't consider it as authentic as Holly Land, where everything, including the servers, is overwhelming to all senses. Also not very authentic, the huge dessert case displaying red velvet, German chocolate, and at least half a dozen more cakes and cookies. But hey, who needs authentic when you can have lemon bars with your lamb kabob?

Really, really good hummus. If it doesn't come with your meal, order a side. It's a must.

Gyro (Yee-ro) plate. 

Gyro sandwich. 

Shish web site. 

Cupcake

If you live within sixty miles of University Avenue in the Twin Cities, you have probably been affected by the construction of the new light rail system. While I am a big fan of the entire light rail concept, the traffic jams inevitable with such huge projects have been a nightmare. But my own kvetching aside, the small businesses dotting University Avenue are the ones truly suffering. No parking, closed roads, and a ton of debris and dust are keeping customers away and putting these places in jeopardy.

Millie and I did our part yesterday by visiting the adorable coffee shop/bakery/restaurant Cupcake. It has a beautiful outdoor patio resembling a bistro on a Paris side street (I imagine) with imposing wrought iron gates and bright green ivy climbing the amber brick walls.

The inside is equally whimsical. You get the point as soon as you reach for the front door handles- giant metal whisks. Inside, Millie especially enjoys sitting by the plexiglass kitchen windows that allow her to gawk at the bakers with their rows and rows of sprinkles lined up like cheerful little soldiers.

Yeah yeah, but how are the cupcakes? Divine. Fluffy when they should be, dense when expected (try any of the über dark chocolate ones), never too sweet. The flavors come in both traditional, like red velvet, and funky options, like the Cup O' Mud—a chocolate cupcake topped with a ball of chocolate mousse, rolled in crushed chocolate cookies and garnished with a gummy worm. Even their "simple" cupcakes come with fun names, like the Claire Huxtable or the Paris Hilton (yep, it's hot pink.)

But as a freelancer who likes to work out of local coffee shops, the greatest benefit of Cupcake is the extensive menu of fresh lunch items. Two types of quiches are a part of a breakfast menu. Those working through lunch can indulge in soups, salads, hot or cold sandwiches, even paninis. Apple panini anyone?

If you are in the neighborhood, please take the time to stop by and help these wonderful little places. Take a break from the traffic and linger over a creamy cappuccino. Better yet, stop by during the dreadful morning commute and bring a box (or four) of cupcakes to work. It's a win-win any way you look at it.

Millie loved her Have A Nice Day cupcake—a vanilla cupcake with marshmallow topping.

Mmm, cappuccino.

Kid in a cupcake store.

Pic by of Millie. 

Click here for Cupcake's tempting web site.